It was the moment of truth, one I had been nervously anticipating, as I slipped into the driver's side of the compact Peugeot rental car and took a quick visual inventory. Everything was in place, but a mirror image of what I'd become accustomed to since I started driving nearly half my lifetime ago. What dexterity I have was exclusively assigned to my right side upon birth, and other than a few pathetic left-handed throwing competitions, I never really made an effort to balance out the abilities of my appendages. Testing the shifter in my left hand felt familiar though, as I recalled my high school days when a cheeseburger, a cellphone, or a cigarette (of sorts) in my right hand required some driving skills you never learn from an instructor (unless Otto Mann was your driving instructor). After awkwardly pulling out of the parking lot, I picked up my friends around the corner, and asked them to navigate me as quickly as possible out of the city and onto the highway, preferably with as few right turns as possible.
9am on Saturday morning, Juan, Clara, Maria and myself began our road trip south west towards the Ring of Kerry, which is essentially the road that encircles County Kerry. We did not have a set plan, but knew rough distances, a few places we wanted to reach, and how much time we had (which was not all that much). 2 hours into the drive we arrived in Limerick and stopped for some lunch. I thought it appropriate that each one of us would be tasked with coming up with one limerick (dirty or not) while we were there, but the Spaniards were not up for it. Perhaps if I shared one like this, they would've felt more inspired:
From Limerick, we continued towards Dingle Peninsula, which sits on the northernmost peninsula of County Kerry. We stopped to walk around the quaint little town of Dingle before driving on Slea Head Drive along the coastline of the peninsula. After a few stops where each view was better than the last, we decided future stops would be limited to quick pictures with the engine running, so as not to get delayed too much.
The next morning we hit the road early, knowing that we did not want to rush the Ring of Kerry. We were advised to drive to Cahersiveen and if the mountains west of us were clear (something that doesn't happen very often), we should take the ferry over to Valentia Island to do an extended drive and see some more sights. The weather was on our side, so we took the ferry over and drove around the island, visiting a lighthouse, a quarry/grotto, and the Tetrapod trackway, the oldest fossil record of vertebrates moving onto land, dated at 385 million years old.
We crossed the bridge back from the other side of Valentia Island and got back onto the Ring of Kerry, where we continued to drive along the coast towards Killarney. This might be a good place to describe driving on the Ring of Kerry. Most roads are the width of one car, some one and a half. The roads are also winding and tree-lined, so every turn contains a moment of excitement and adrenalin, and for most of those not driving the car, concern, about what may appear around the corner approaching us at a similar speed. This resulted in many a bated breath, for me and the others, and quite often rapid deceleration and a hugging of the treeline as the two cars sped by each other only centimeters apart. Though I could not enjoy the views as much as the passengers, I made sure that the 1,000km I drove were just as enjoyable for me, as I pretended my little stickshift Peugeot was a rally car and that it was quite normal for me to zipping along with very moderate braking.
After a lunch stop in Sneem, we arrived at the Killarney National Park and drove pretty much straight through, stopping only for one or two photo opps. Though we didn't have enough time to stop in Cork, I insisted we drive to the Blarney Castle as I did not know if I'd have another chance to visit it. When we arrived around 5pm, we discovered that the grounds were closed for the day, as I had anticipated. Slightly disappointed but undeterred, I scouted the area and the jagged fence, noticing an area outside of the security cameras' views with a nearby tree to serve as a boost. I needed to do no more than give Juan a look and receive an unmistakable nod back to know that he understood my exact plan and would be right behind me. As the girls looked on, I nervously maneuvered my feet over the the jagged steel fence and hopped to the other side, as visitors casually walked by. To my discredit, my daring fence-hopping looked much less heroic when Juan repeated the task with a mix of grace and nonchalance. Knowing we didn't have much time, we briskly walked around exploring the grounds, the gardens, and the castle. The castle gates were locked, and realizing it was built precisely to keep unwanted intruders out, and had successfully been doing so for centuries, we chose to not attempt another break-in.
After walking out of Blarney, unescorted and through the gates, to the minor dismay of Clara and Maria, we completed the two hour drive back to Dublin, exactly 36 hours after my initial adjustment to left-lane driving. Though the trip felt rushed at times, I felt like we had made the most of our time, and as with my previous trip out of Dublin, I continued to be very impressed by all Ireland had to offer. If only Ireland had better weather, well, then it wouldn't be Ireland. But to see these places with clear sunny skies, as we were lucky enough to have, is to see a land that has averted over-development not for the sake of maintaining an appearance of desolation. Ireland's weather may be a downer consistently 3/4 of the year, and most days of that remaining 1/4, but when you catch it on a good day, which I've been fortunate to have more than my fair share, there's few places I'd rather be. My next few weekends will be taking me out of Ireland, but I'm excited to continue discovering its beauty in June. Maybe one of you wants to join me?
- From Erez with Love
9am on Saturday morning, Juan, Clara, Maria and myself began our road trip south west towards the Ring of Kerry, which is essentially the road that encircles County Kerry. We did not have a set plan, but knew rough distances, a few places we wanted to reach, and how much time we had (which was not all that much). 2 hours into the drive we arrived in Limerick and stopped for some lunch. I thought it appropriate that each one of us would be tasked with coming up with one limerick (dirty or not) while we were there, but the Spaniards were not up for it. Perhaps if I shared one like this, they would've felt more inspired:
There once was a fellow McSweeny
Who spilled some gin on his weenie
Just to be couth
He added vermouth
Then slipped his girlfriend a martini
Who spilled some gin on his weenie
Just to be couth
He added vermouth
Then slipped his girlfriend a martini
Limerick, Ireland - Proof that pan flute bands are truly everywhere
Harpist's Bazaar
From Limerick, we continued towards Dingle Peninsula, which sits on the northernmost peninsula of County Kerry. We stopped to walk around the quaint little town of Dingle before driving on Slea Head Drive along the coastline of the peninsula. After a few stops where each view was better than the last, we decided future stops would be limited to quick pictures with the engine running, so as not to get delayed too much.
Inch Beach - a beautiful wind-gusting place where you'd never want to have your wedding photos taken. Oh wait...
Perhaps a wedding veil would actually serve a purpose in this situation
Blasket Islands in the distance
The affectionately/unfortunately-named town of Dingle
Unsurprisingly, they like their wool products in Dingle
In 1983 a lone dolphin, later named Fungie, arrived in Dingle and never left. With a crowd of people watching, Juan thought it appropriate to re-enact what he imagined a dolphin rape would look like. It's a real thing.
Twin panoramic shots taken with no intention of capturing the photographers
After completing Slea Head Drive, our next mission was to get back onto the Ring of Kerry and find a B&B for the night, with only one stipulation: a pub within walking distance. About an hour before nightfall, we arrived in the town of Killorglin, famous (within 100 miles) for their yearly Puck Fair where the tradition has existed for 400+ years that they crown a goat King. Not surprisingly, this was something the locals seemed to be very proud of.
This being a holiday weekend, the two best restaurants in town were booked until 9:30, so we headed down to the local pub that was full of locals and weekend visitors from Cork. While at the bar, I began chatting with a 6 foot tall blonde and somehow within a few minutes she was introducing me to her family as the American that was going to get her a visa. I uncomfortably laughed and asked her if she called that a proposal, to which she responded by adjusting her tight mini-dress, bracing herself on her high heels, and getting down on one knee, capturing the attention of the entire bar as she boisterously proposed to me. With every pair of eyes looking at us, I reluctantly said yes to which we received a round of applause, while her family in the corner looked embarrassed and worried. Her drunken mother and aunt then made their voices heard of how they disapproved, her aunt even telling me this girl, who never actually introduced herself, was a lesbian. I refrained from telling them I was a nice Jewish boy, and when dad walked in later, he also did not seem entertained, as though this wasn't the first time his daughter had pulled such a stunt. After receiving words of congratulations and well wishes from the bar patrons while sitting with my friends, we went to Nick's Seafood Restaurant which turned out to be the best meal I've had in all of Ireland. Following dinner, we followed the music outside to a bar/beer garden nearby, where an energetic band of locals played a variety of rock and pop music to a packed and fun-loving crowd, while the Chevy Chase classic(ally bad) movie Nothing But Trouble was playing on the TVs.
Throughout the night, there was a persistent feeling I had that made me feel very happy to be where we were, to continually be surprised by the friendliness of all the locals and their unique spirit. Towards the end of the night, I was able to confidently conclude that this was the best night I had had so far in Ireland. I felt determined to re-think the rest of my trip and temper my eagerness to get out of the country to see as much of Europe as I had instinctually felt I should do. Instead, I want to take advantage of the opportunity I have to see this beautiful country and spend more time getting to know the people and the places that make it so unique.
The view from our Killorglin B&B
The Kerry Krew
Cromwell Fort and Valentia Lighthouse, once one of Europe's westernmost inhabited locations
The Grotto at the old slate quarry
We crossed the bridge back from the other side of Valentia Island and got back onto the Ring of Kerry, where we continued to drive along the coast towards Killarney. This might be a good place to describe driving on the Ring of Kerry. Most roads are the width of one car, some one and a half. The roads are also winding and tree-lined, so every turn contains a moment of excitement and adrenalin, and for most of those not driving the car, concern, about what may appear around the corner approaching us at a similar speed. This resulted in many a bated breath, for me and the others, and quite often rapid deceleration and a hugging of the treeline as the two cars sped by each other only centimeters apart. Though I could not enjoy the views as much as the passengers, I made sure that the 1,000km I drove were just as enjoyable for me, as I pretended my little stickshift Peugeot was a rally car and that it was quite normal for me to zipping along with very moderate braking.
Coffee break at Waterville, a favorite of Charlie Chaplin. Pro tip: if you're a B-list celebrity or higher, take a few trips to any little known town outside the US. At a minimum they'll put you in your guidebook, at best you'll get a statue erected.
Sneem was our last official stop on the Ring of Kerry
After a lunch stop in Sneem, we arrived at the Killarney National Park and drove pretty much straight through, stopping only for one or two photo opps. Though we didn't have enough time to stop in Cork, I insisted we drive to the Blarney Castle as I did not know if I'd have another chance to visit it. When we arrived around 5pm, we discovered that the grounds were closed for the day, as I had anticipated. Slightly disappointed but undeterred, I scouted the area and the jagged fence, noticing an area outside of the security cameras' views with a nearby tree to serve as a boost. I needed to do no more than give Juan a look and receive an unmistakable nod back to know that he understood my exact plan and would be right behind me. As the girls looked on, I nervously maneuvered my feet over the the jagged steel fence and hopped to the other side, as visitors casually walked by. To my discredit, my daring fence-hopping looked much less heroic when Juan repeated the task with a mix of grace and nonchalance. Knowing we didn't have much time, we briskly walked around exploring the grounds, the gardens, and the castle. The castle gates were locked, and realizing it was built precisely to keep unwanted intruders out, and had successfully been doing so for centuries, we chose to not attempt another break-in.
Ladies View scenic point of Killarney National Park
The Blarney Castle, whose famous Stone did not receive my kiss. So who's the unlucky one?
I'm intrigued. Go on...
Funny enough, one of the few "poison" plants placed behind a barrier, and the biggest barrier, is the marijuana plant. Of course, not b/c it is the most poisonous, but b/c the others probably do not have the same risk of theft. You could even see a couple of spots in the ground where visitors tried to dig their way under the barrier. I had already broken into the place, and thought it wise to not push my luck.
- From Erez with Love
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